Overk Essence

If you have oily or acne-prone skin, the way you cleanse matters more than you may think. So here a a few things to note when cleansing your face.

1. Use lukewarm water, not hot water.

I know you think using hot water will help your acne heal faster but hot water can increase dryness and irritation by stripping some of the skin’s natural oils. Your cleanser doesn’t need hot water to work. Use tepid or lukewarm water.

2. Massage your cleanser for about 60 seconds.

Don’t just apply your cleanser and immediately rinse it off. Gently massage it over your face, especially around areas where you tend to get oily or congested. You don’t need to scrub , just give the cleanser enough time to do its job before rinsing off.

3. Stop scrubbing your acne.

Those pimples are not dirt that needs to be scrubbed away. Use your fingertips and gentle pressure. Harsh scrubbing can irritate the skin and make an already inflamed face even more irritated and uncomfortable.

4. Pat your face dry. Don’t rub aggressively.

After rinsing, use a clean, soft towel and gently pat away the excess water. Your skin doesn’t need friction to be clean.

And one more thing…

Your face should feel clean and comfortable after cleansing not tight, squeaky or painfully dry.

Because when it comes to acne-prone skin, gentle cleansing is more effective compared with cleansing aggressively.

Save this for your next cleansing routine.

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But how do I even know if the cream I’m using contains a steroid?

I get asked this question a lot.

This is where things get interesting.

Because a steroid cream does not always walk into your bathroom wearing a name tag saying;

“Hello, I am a steroid.” 😂

Sometimes it is a prescription medicine that is supposed to actually help with your treatment.

Sometimes it is a medicated cream.

And sometimes, unfortunately, corticosteroids have been found in products marketed for things like complexion improvement, toning or skin lightening.

So if you are using a cream and you want to know what is actually in it, don’t just read the front of the container.

Turn it around.

Look at the ingredients or active ingredients.

Some topical corticosteroid names you may come across include:

Hydrocortisone
Betamethasone
Clobetasol
Mometasone
Fluocinolone
Triamcinolone
Fluticasone
Clobetasone

These are not all the same strength. Some are mild, while others are potent or very potent corticosteroids.

There work differently and it is important to know this. Seeing a steroid on a label does NOT automatically mean the product is BAD.

Topical corticosteroids are legitimate medicines used to treat inflammatory skin conditions such as eczema and dermatitis. The issue is what steroid it is, where it is being used, why it is being used, how often, and for how long.

The problem begins when we start treating a powerful medicine like ordinary skincare.

For example;

My skin is darker today, let me apply this cream.

My face is breaking out, let me use it.

I have dark spots, this cream cleared them before, so I’ll keep using it.

Or…

“It makes my skin look so smooth, so why should I stop?”

And that last one is where many people get caught.

Because the cream is making the skin look better by suppressing inflammation very quickly.

That can feel like a miracle.

But your skin can still be having a completely different story underneath.

So before you decide that a cream is “working perfectly for me,”

find out what is actually inside it.

And if you have a cream at home whose ingredients you don’t understand, don’t guess.

read the label, research, understand the ingredients, and understand what your skin is doing.

Because the goal isn’t to be afraid of steroids.

The goal is to stop using powerful medicines blindly like they are just ordinary skincare products.

You get?

Next, I’ll show you how your skin has been talking to you about steroids, because sometimes, your skin itself starts giving you clues that something isn’t quite right.

But you don’t listen 🤷‍♀️

Is your skin dull, dry, or actually pigmented?

Most times you think your skin needs a brightening serum when what it really needs is moisture.

Not every skin responds to brightening products especially dry dehydrated skin.

And sometimes, what looks like dullness is actually pigmentation.

So then which is it?

Dull skin?

If your skin is dull, it will often look tired, less radiant, or lacking that healthy glow.

It could be caused by dryness, dehydration, rough texture, or a buildup of dead skin cells.

If your skin feels rough and looks a little ashy, especially after washing, moisture and gentle skincare may be a better place to start than adding another brightening active.

Dry or dehydrated skin?

These two are not exactly the same.

Dry skin refers to a lack of oil, while dehydrated skin refers to a lack of water.

Both can make your skin look less radiant.

You may notice tightness, roughness, flaking, or fine lines that become more visible.

And if you keep exfoliating because your skin looks dull, you may end up making the dryness worse.

Sometimes, the best thing you can do for your glow is to support your skin barrier and improve on hydration.

Pigmented skin?

Pigmentation is different from dullness.

It happens when certain areas of the skin become darker due to increased melanin production or changes in how melanin is distributed.

You may notice dark spots after acne, darker patches from sun exposure, or uneven areas around the mouth, cheeks, knees, or other parts of the body.

In this case, the goal is not simply to moisturize.

You need to understand what is causing the pigmentation and choose treatment accordingly.

And this is why I always say that skincare is not just about buying products.

It is about understanding your skin.

A brightening serum may help with pigmentation, but it may not solve dryness.

A moisturizer may improve dullness caused by dryness, but it may not fade a dark spot.

And exfoliating more is not always the answer.

Before you buy another brightening product, take a closer look at your skin.

What exactly are you trying to improve?

Because the right treatment starts with understanding the problem.

And you don’t exactly have to fall into only one category, your skin can actually be dry, dull, dehydrated and pigmented.

If that’s the case with you, you don’t just run off to start buying brightening products, you will have to begin with addressing the dryness and dehydration first before anything else.

Confused on products to use? Send a dm to a book consultation.

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I don’t want to bleach o, I just want my skin to be very bright!😁

I get to hear this a lot so let’s talk about this because I think many people still confuse brightening with bleaching.

When you hear that a product is a brightening serum or lotion, what comes to your mind? Be honest.

A lighter complexion? A change in your natural skin colour? Or skin that looks more radiant and even?

These are not the same thing.

Skin brightening is mainly about improving the appearance of dullness, uneven skin tone, and pigmentation. It is about helping your skin look more radiant and bringing attention to areas that may have become darker due to acne, sun exposure, or other causes.

And this is where most be get is mixed up. You cannot get a brightening product and expect it to get you to 3-4 shades lighter than your natural skin tone.

That is why you should pay attention to the ingredients list at the back of your products. Brightening ingredients such as niacinamide, vitamin C, azelaic acid, and alpha arbutin can help improve the appearance of uneven skin tone and dark spots through different mechanisms.

Some help reduce the transfer of melanin to skin cells. Others interfere with processes involved in melanin production or help address the inflammation that contributes to pigmentation.

But not every ingredient that lightens the skin should be treated as a harmless brightening ingredient.

Bleaching ingredients such as hydroquinone, kojic acid, and certain other melanin-reducing agents can also lighten pigmentation. The important difference is not simply that one ingredient brightens and the other bleaches.

It is how the ingredient works, what it is being used to treat, how strong the formulation is, and whether it is appropriate for that person’s skin.

For example, hydroquinone can be useful for treating certain pigmentation concerns, but it is not something to use casually or indefinitely without appropriate professional guidance.

And some products marketed as skin-lightening creams may contain potent or undisclosed ingredients that can cause harm when used incorrectly. So regardless of the ingredients list, any product that makes you 3-4 shades lighter than your natural skin tone is simply bleaching your skin.

So, when you see a product labelled “brightening,” don’t just look at the name.

Look at the ingredients.

Understand what they do.

And most importantly, understand what you are trying to treat.

Because brightening is not supposed to mean changing your natural skin colour.

It is about helping your skin look more even, radiant, and healthy.

If you have been using brightening products for months, but your skin still doesn’t look the way you expected.

I know by now you must be wondering why the product is not working. You may even think that you bought a fake product and you are already thinking of buying another one that is being hyped by so many people.

But before buy anything else, let’s talk about something that is often overlooked.

Your skin may not need more brightening products. It may need a better understanding of what is actually happening to it.

For example, if your skin is dry and rough, applying brightening lotions or serums without addressing the dryness will not give you the result you want. The skin could be rough due to buildup of dead skin that needs to be exfoliated before your products can be properly absorbed.

But you will need to be careful here because if you are using too many exfoliating products, you may be irritating your skin and making uneven pigmentation harder to manage. Exfoliate is good but too much of it is bad for your skin.

If you are also dealing with acne while trying to brighten up your skin, the dark spots will be on repeat because as you brighten the ones that was there previously more spots appear once the active acne heals.

This is why I don’t believe in recommending brightening products simply because someone says, “I want my skin to be brighter.”

What exactly are we trying to brighten?

Is it dullness? Dark spots? Uneven skin tone? Post-acne marks? Or are you expecting your natural skin colour to change?

These are not the same thing, and they should not all be treated the same way.

Another thing to consider is sun exposure. You may be using a good brightening ingredient, but if your skin is constantly exposed to UV radiation without adequate protection, you will not achieve your desired results.

Another thing is most times , the problem is simply that the product has not been given enough time to work. So many people are so impatient with products. They just want to see results in 3 days. It’s the reason why we have people walking around with damaged skin.

Brightening is not an overnight process. Depending on what you are treating, it can take weeks to months to see meaningful improvement.

So, before you conclude that your skincare is not working, take a step back.

Understand your skin concern. Check the ingredients you are using. Make sure your skin is tolerating them. And give your routine the time and consistency it needs.

Healthy, even-looking skin is not achieved by using the most brightening products. It is achieved by using the right products for the right concern consistently.

If you are struggling with dullness, dark spots, or uneven skin tone, let’s talk about what your skin actually needs.

If you have dry skin, it is very easy to think the solution is to moisturize more.

But sometimes, it isn’t about how much moisturizer you use. It’s about what you are doing to your skin before the moisturizer even gets there.

Most times, stripping starts from the bathroom. From the temperature of the water to your soap and even sponge!

I know a hot shower feels really good, especially after a long day, but very hot water can remove some of the oils from the surface of your skin. If your skin is already dry, that can make it feel even tighter afterwards.

Then there is the soap.

Some soaps and cleansers are very good at removing oil. The problem is that they don’t always know the difference between the oil you want to remove and the oils your dry skin needs to help protect its barrier. Especially soaps that brightens the skin. They tend to contain ingredients that dry out your skin.

That very clean, tight feeling after bathing isn’t necessarily a sign that your skin is clean. Sometimes it is a sign that you’ve taken away too much.

And if your skin is dry and flaky, you may be tempted to scrub it.

Please don’t.

Scrubbing away the flakes may make the skin look smoother for a little while, but if you’re repeatedly irritating an already compromised skin barrier, you’re not really solving the problem. And if you have dry skin never use salt scrubs.

The same goes for overdoing exfoliating acids or using too many active products at once. Layering several potentially irritating actives together, especially when your skin is already dry, can be too much for your skin barrier.

More actives does not necessarily mean better results. Most times it just results in more irritation, more dryness and a skin barrier that struggles to heal.

And one small thing that can make a difference is when you moisturize.

You don’t need to wait until your skin is completely dry after bathing. Applying your moisturizer while the skin is still slightly damp can help trap some of that water in the skin.

So before you decide that your moisturizer isn’t working and go looking for another one, take a look at your routine.

Your dry skin may not need you to do more.

It may need you to stop stripping away what it already has.

And now that we’ve talked about it, check your routine and habits and adjust accordingly.

Kindly share 🤎♥️

Why is my skin so dry?

If you have dry skin, you probably already know the feeling can be very uncomfortable.

You moisturize after bathing, sometimes you even moisturize again later in the day, and yet your skin still feels dry. Sometimes it feels tight. Other times it's rough or flaky. And you start wondering if you just haven't found the right lotion.

But here's what is actually happening.

Your skin naturally produces oil (sebum), and this oil is part of what helps keep your skin comfortable and protects the barrier.

There are also lipids in the outermost layer of the skin, mainly ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids, that help keep water from escaping too quickly.

When you naturally produce less of these oils, or your skin barrier isn't functioning properly, you lose water more easily through the skin. This is called transepidermal water loss, or TEWL.

And that's a big part of why dry skin feels the way it does. Tight and uncomfortable.

So, dry skin isn't simply “skin that needs more water.”

It is more about how well your skin can hold on to moisture and protect itself from water loss.

Some people are naturally more prone to dry skin because of genetics, age and how much sebum their skin produces. Then there are things that can make dryness worse, like harsh soaps, very hot water, over-exfoliating, certain skincare products and environmental conditions.

Which is why sometimes you can keep changing your moisturizer and still not solve the problem.

There may be more going on than the moisturizer itself.

And that's what we're going to unpack in this series.

Next: Is your skin actually dry, or is it dehydrated?

Because those two are not the same thing.

Kindly share with that friend that has complained about her dry skin to you.

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Few days ago I saw a post that said you shouldn’t rub body cream on your armpits or your breasts.

So many people were asking why?

Because these areas have skin too and also deserve care.

So what exactly makes the armpit or breast suddenly become a “no cream zone”?

So I thought to clear this up because skincare advice can become unnecessarily scary when we remove the science from it.

Yes, your skin absorbs some of what you put on it.

But absorption does NOT mean that everything you apply goes straight into your bloodstream.

Your skin is actually a very sophisticated barrier. And how much of a substance gets through depends on things like the ingredient, its concentration, the formulation, the condition of your skin and the part of the body you're applying it to.

Now this is where location starts to matter.

Your armpits and the area underneath your breasts are skin folds.

They are warmer. They stay more humid. There is more friction. And because skin sits against skin, moisture doesn't evaporate as easily.

That environment can make the skin more prone to irritation and intertrigo(inflammation between skin folds)

It can also affect how certain ingredients pe*****te the skin.

This is especially important with potent topical steroids.

Skin-fold areas absorb topical steroids more readily than thick areas like the palms and soles, and occlusion can increase absorption even further.

That's why potent steroids are generally avoided in skin folds unless there's a specific medical reason for using them. Prolonged use can cause skin thinning and stretch marks. That’s why you often see that those who bleach have stretch marks around their armpits area.

Now notice something important here,

The problem isn't “cream.”

The problem is what is in the cream and what that particular area of skin can tolerate.

A simple moisturising cream is not the same thing as a potent steroid.

An ordinary fragrance-free moisturizer is not the same thing as an exfoliating treatment.

And a hydrating body lotion is certainly not the same thing as a product containing multiple strong actives.

So what CAN you use?

For healthy breast skin and dry or irritated underarm skin, you generally don't need anything complicated.

Look for a gentle, fragrance-free moisturizer containing familiar barrier supporting ingredients such as:

Glycerin — helps attract and hold water in the skin.

Ceramides — help support the skin barrier.

Dimethicone — forms a protective layer and reduces water loss.

Petrolatum — a very effective occlusive that helps reduce water loss.

Shea butter or mineral oil — can also help soften and protect dry skin.

But there's a little nuance here too.

If we're talking specifically about underneath the breast or another sweaty skin fold, you don't necessarily want to coat the area with a thick, greasy product and leave it constantly damp.

It is recommended that you choose a cream or lotion that is lightweight rather than very occlusive ointments for skin folds.

And if the problem is already moisture, friction or a rash, barrier products containing ingredients such as zinc oxide or petrolatum can actually be useful in the right situation because they can reduce friction and protect the skin.

So again, context matters.

What about acids?

This is where you should be more cautious.

Glycolic acid, salicylic acid, lactic acid and other exfoliating ingredients aren't automatically “forbidden” on the armpits.

But I wouldn't treat these areas like they're the same as your elbows or knees.

Your armpits already deal with shaving, friction, sweat and deodorants. If you keep adding exfoliating products to irritated skin, you can make the barrier more vulnerable to irritation.

And remember,

Irritation can lead to inflammation, and inflammation can leave pigmentation behind.

So if you're trying to lighten a dark armpit by aggressively exfoliating it everyday it won’t work.

And if I were you I'd be careful with those lightening body creams too. Especially when you don't actually know everything that's inside them.

Then there's the issue of “brightening” these areas,
sometimes the thing you're using to correct the darkness is actually helping to maintain it by triggering more inflammation.

So, does this mean you should never moisturize your armpits or breasts?

No.

There’s no need to panic that you have been rubbing cream on your breast and armpits.

The skin on your breast is still skin.

And a suitable moisturizer can absolutely be used on a HEALTHY breast skin and armpits.

So instead of memorising:

“Never put cream here.”

You need to understand this,

Different areas of your body have different conditions, and those conditions can change how your skin responds to a product.

So it’s best to always go gentle on your skin.
And if you aren’t sure of what to use. Send me a DM to book for paid consultation.

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