Stephanie Hartsock, LE

Why does one person’s melasma fade more easily, while another’s barely shifts?

Where the pigment sits—and what’s happening around it—can help explain the difference.

EPIDERMAL | Surface pigment
Excess melanin sits in the epidermis, the outer layer of your skin. It often looks brown with more defined edges. Because the pigment is closer to the surface, this form generally responds more readily to topical treatments. “Surface” doesn’t mean it can simply be scrubbed away.

DERMAL | Deeper pigment
Melanin is found deeper in the dermis, including inside cells called melanophages that collect pigment. Patches may look grey-brown or blue-grey, with softer borders. This deeper pigment is harder to reach and often responds more slowly or incompletely to treatment.

VASCULAR | The blood-vessel component
Melasma-affected skin can also have increased blood vessels and changes in signalling between vessels and pigment-producing cells. This helps explain why melasma involves more than the brown patches we see.

Vascular involvement can accompany epidermal or dermal pigment—it isn’t a separate pigment depth, and redness alone doesn’t confirm it.

And then there’s MIXED MELASMA: pigment in both the epidermis and dermis. This is common, so your melasma may involve several overlapping features.

Colour offers clues, but a photo or mirror cannot reliably tell you your type. A dermatologist can assess it using examination, dermoscopy and sometimes a Wood’s lamp.

What does this mean for your routine?

More exfoliation doesn’t automatically mean more improvement. Irritation can add further pigmentation. Consistent pigment-targeting care and daily sun protection matter: UV and visible light can stimulate pigment production. Tinted SPF 50+ containing iron oxides adds visible-light protection.

At Windyigarn, our philosophy is regulation first—correction second.

Save this to understand what may be happening beneath your pigmentation.

Iykyk… if you’ve been a student of mine or a loyal client of mine, then you know that I love to say this!! 🤭🤭🤭 don’t worry new clients get a more professional Stephanie!

You heard?? 😋

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Hey Esthis!!! I’m now offering 1-on-1 for my dermaplane classes! What makes this class unique is I am working with you and your skincare line to help you build a dermaplane protocol! You will get a dermaplane kit (enough for 25 services) with this class and then you and I will sit down and make sure you have the products you need before our class! The day of class I will bring a model with me to show you how to do this service and then you’ll bring in your model and do this service on your model!! You will get a certification for completing! This skill will bring your clients back each and every time! This is a valuable skill to add to your service menu!!